My friend Maja confessed me something very intimate, something she was almost shy of. She looked at me, to be sure I won’t consider her nuts. Well, whenever she has luck to eat some really delicious food, she starts to hear someone singing. One voice, two, maybe more, depending on the excitement caused. No, it does not happen very often, maybe once or twice in a year. I am sure if she had been with me in Konoba (tavern) “Stari Podrum” a month ago, a hidden place in the vicinity of Momjan, she would have heard a chorus of angels chanting softly on her ear.
Already finding the place is a sort of mystic trip and adventure. On the road Buje – Kaštel turn right toward Kremenje. When you arrive in Kremenje, take the road to Oskoruš. Here is where fairy tale starts. The narrow local road starts to zigzag through the hills of olive trees and vineyards, you pass a small village with the white stone houses, an old bridge, old murberry trees and finally you are in front of “Stari podrum”. The place itself looks like a lonely house from a fairy tale. Discrete rumbling of water from the stream accompanies you as you enter inside.
Interior is cosy, in a classic rustic Istrian style, with stone walls, nice wooden chairs and tables. Not too fake and kitschy, but very elegant and stylish. There is a fireplace with a barbecue inside. They serve homemade bread and a good house white wine – Istrian Malvasia. It is advisable to reserve one or two days in advance since the places are limited.
We were not too hungry, so we took just the soup and a mixed plate of hot and cold starters. The tomato soup with homemade pasta was excellent. Then came a large plate of delicious charcuterie: istrian prosciutto, sausages, ossocollo, pork tenderloin (croatian: ombolo), everything air-dried and not smoked. A bottle of local extravirgin olive oil was at our disposal, so we poured some oil over the cheese aromatized with black truffles or salad with freshly picked radicchio and rucola, two dishes that came shortly after. That was not the end, soon the lady brought us two amazing omelettes, one made with wild asparagus and one with black truffles. Everything on our table smelled so good, the air was saturated with different mouthwatering aromas. The price per person, wine, water and coffee included, was around 100 kn (13.5 eur)
The starters we tried were not expression of a very elaborate cuisine but of locally produced food. It is hard to describe the sensation we felt, but believe me, our nose and mouth told us that everything we ate was homemade or produced within 1-2 km. At the end we approached the owner and the main cook of “Stari podrum” to praise the dishes she served us. She responded very modestly: “We just serve what we serve at our home”.
I am looking forward to come again to “Stari podrum” and do a real review of this magical place. This was just a review trailer, so do not take it bad if the photos of the dishes are missing.
Konoba “Stari podrum”
phone +385 (0)52 779152
View Restaurant Stari podrum near Momjan in a larger map