Post image for Konoba “Stare Užance” Premantura: Be creative, but with moderation!

Konoba “Stare Užance” Premantura: Be creative, but with moderation!

by Gogo on July 7, 2009

in Restaurants

I like the summer time in Premantura. It is located only 15 km south of Pula, yet when you enter in this southernmost village of Istria it feels like you arrived on a small island lost in the Adriatic Sea. From the main square, in the evening crowded with tourists eating an ice cream or just relaxing after an exhausting day on the beach, you will easily spot a narrow street which leads to konoba (tavern) “Stare Užance”.

Stare Užance, Premantura - exterior
The exterior is inviting and warm

It is one of the few dining places open throughout the year in Premantura which makes the place very popular among locals. I advise you to make reservation one day in advance.

The exterior is inviting and warm, few tables are placed outside, or under an old mulberry tree. Inside, the classical istrian rustic style with old wooden tables and chairs is happily coexisting with many modern details, like red papier-mâché roses and red curtains hanging from the ceiling. Very creative and refreshing, relaxed and pleasant atmosphere. Ambient 9.5/10

The white house wine was Malvazija from Pilato winery – decent quality, crisp and fruity, medium body, excellent with seafood (1 L – 60 kn). We were delighted to see the bread was homemade, but it was way too salty. The house olive oil was nothing worth of remembering, dull and plain. There is no cover charge.
Details 7.5/10

squid carpaccio

Octopus carpaccio on the bed of roquette was a success and had a nice price. The octopus was not overcooked, the meat remained “al dente”, and its strong sweetish taste was nicely constrasted with spiciness of roquette. The overall impression was ruined by (again!) too much salt. Price 52 kn (7.10 eur) Score 8.5/10

scampi on roquette with parmiggiano

Scampi Tails on roquette bed with parmiggiano was an example with which ingredients delicate seafood should not be combined. Too much roquette, too much parmiggiano, too much pine nuts, made that these ingredients of very intense taste completely covered the finesse of just three to four tiny scampi tails (hard to spot them on the photo). Overpriced.
Price 64 kn (8.70 eur) Score 6/10

We finished with cold starters and continued to pasta and risotto.

cuttlefish risotto

Cuttlefish risotto came in a pretty terracota plate and the portion was huge. Unfortunately, the preparation was not so stunning. The rice was at the same time not cooked but it had consistency of the porridge, which was a sign that either rice was not of risotto type, or that the rice was not quickly fried on the oil at the beginning. Moreover, there was no sign of a good fish stock, an essential ingredient of every good risotto. Finally, I did not appreciate the presence of cream that made the dish too heavy and masked the taste of the excellent cuttlefish meat. Good ingredients, bad preparation.
Price 63 kn (8.60 eur) Score 6.5/10

tagliatelle frutti di mare

The portion of Seafood tagliatelle was again abundant, and tasted better than the risotto. The tagliatelle were not homemade and were slightly overcooked. The seafood sauce consisted mainly of squids, without or too few signs of mussels, scampi, clams or shrimps. Definitely they should name the dish Tagliatelle in squid stew sauce. The sauce was done well, but nothing extraordinary. Addition of just a bit of aromatic herbs would do no harm.
Price 67 kn (9.10 eur) Score 7.5/10

goat cheese cream in puff pastry with strawberries

For dessert we shared Goat cheese creamcake in puff pastry with strawberry sauce. A very simple and original cake, with good cheese (probably of local origin?) and fresh strawberries, nicely presented. This was the best dish of the evening.
Price 20 kn (2.70 eur) Score 9/10

The overall impression was not too bad, but “Stare Užance” definitely needs to find a better cook. Or we took too difficult dishes (risotto for example) to test the place? In the first place the cook should know how to prepare the dishes in traditional way and only then some personal creativity can be added.

Overall 7.8/10

Konoba “Stare Užance”
Premantura 127A, HR-52213 Medulin
tel. +385 (0)52 575 163


Visualizza Konoba “Stare Užance” – Premantura in una mappa di dimensioni maggiori

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{ 3 comments… read them below or add one }

Cesare July 14, 2009 at 12:38

definitely, scampi+parmigiano is a coupling that needs some care. For 1 Kg of scampi I usually don't use more than one or two spoons of parmesan.
The raw/limp rice means that it was not properly cared while cooking; either the broth was not warm enough or the rice was left unattended for some time.

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Clem July 14, 2009 at 14:29

Ok Ok I'm taking the advice of the pros for my next risotto: fry the rice (check, I always do that), broth warm enough (is slightly boiling ok?), do not leave the rice unattended (I guess that means I will have to stop reading Goran's blog while cooking…)

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Dr. Gogo July 14, 2009 at 15:36

You got it all right. The broth should slightly boil so that the risotto is not cooled down. You must be there all the time, 15-20 min, and mix it so that it does not stick to the pan.

Clem, I heard about your miracolous recipe to make jam/marmelade in just 30 min. I desperately need it to make a plum jam, we have tens of kg of plums this year. You made it from figs, didn't you?

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