After the interesting lecture of traditional vinegar making in Tone’s wine cellar, we needed some fresh air and sunshine so we went to see his vineyard, placed just near the house. He walks in front of us. At one point, he stops, takes off his shoes and continues to walk barefoot on the warm soil of that summer afternoon.
Tone in his vineyard
He says: “I just feel more comfortable. Walking or working in the vineyard is my relaxation, it gives me sense of life eversince I retired. Otherwise it would be boring here.”
Over 100 years old vine of Istrian Malvasia. A grape of Brajdenica (Duranija) (left to right)
The vineyard is small, situated on a hill, with the slope facing to the south and a beautiful look at the medieval town Lindar just across the valley. The most impressive are more than 100-years-old vines of Istrian Malvasia and Brajdenica (Duranija). Brajdenica is another Croatian autochtonous variety, easily distinguishable from Malvasia since it has slightly eliptical berries. To my knowledge, appart Tone there is only Boris Hrvatin from Bankovci near Pazin who uses this rare Istrian variety in winemaking but blended with Malvasia.
I am curious how would taste a wine made of 100% Brajdenica vinified in stainless steel. In that way the varietal aromas would be preserved and maybe an interesting new wine could be born? I hope these lines will inspire some Istrian winemaker to try to make it.
Before we left Gabrijelski Brijeg, Tone gave us recipes for making three kinds of aromatized spirits – orahovac, smrikovača and rakija od žižula. They are traditionally made in his family by infusing walnuts, juniper or jujube (hr. orah, smrika, žižula) fruits in rakija. Rakija is a brandy, very similar to italian grappa, produced by distillation of grape pomaces. Usually it has around 55% vol. (alcohol by volume) when exits the distillation alambic but is then diluted with distilled water to 40 – 45% vol.
Orahovac – Walnuts grappa
1 L rakija (or grappa) of 40 – 45 % vol.
400 g sugar
7-9 walnuts
Walnuts had to be picked in a short period between Saint Lawrence and Saint Martha (21 – 29 July). The green outer layer will be green and it should not be removed. Cut each fruit in four chunks and put it in a transparent glass jar. Dissolve sugar in some hot water to get sugar syrup. Add rakija and syrup in the jar and close the lid firmly. Leave the jar on the sun for 40 days. It is an excellent relief for stomach problems and poor digestion.
Smrikovača – juniper grappa
1 branch of juniper with mostly blue fruits
1 L rakija of 40 – 45 % vol.
Rakija od žižula – jujube grappa
7 jujube fruits
1 L rakija of 40 – 45 % vol.
Juniper branch. Juniper and jujube grappa in the bottle.
In both cases just put the branch or the fruits inside the bottle with rakija. Wait for few months until the spirit gets some color from the plants. Enjoy.
