Post image for 2006 Roxanich “Malvasia Classica” – Istrian Malvasia

2006 Roxanich “Malvasia Classica” – Istrian Malvasia

by Gogo on June 10, 2010

in All wines,EatIstria Vino

People used to the fruitiness of modern white wines will not immediately understand this wine. But, give a glass of Malvasia Classica to an old peasant from any Istrian village and he will surely tell you: “This is real wine! Not a perfumed fruit juice like most Malvasias these days”.

2006 Roxanich "Malvazija Classica" - Istrian Malvasia

Prolonged contact with the Malvasia skins (maceration) of 26 days is responsible for an intense gold yellow color. Only indigenous yeast, already present on the grapes, was used in the fermentation. Lately, these macerated wines are also called orange wines.

In the glass flows slowly. The nose is intense and complex, mysterious -uncommon aromas are waiting to be discovered. I like to get challenged right from the beginning.

Long maceration did not completely erased primary aromatics of Malvasia – acacia flowers is discretely present, but there’s no fruit at all. Rather, scents of dried mushrooms, dry hay, Mediterranean garrigue, forest floor and wet clay dominate, all intertwined with subtle ethereal components similar to varnish, natural gas, essential oils and hot chilly.

In the mouth it is more intense than in the nose. Dry, warm, full bodied, savory “umami” feeling. A certain lack of acidity takes away a bit of agility (alcohol becomes too obvious) and makes it a bit heavy to drink, especially without food. So please, drink this wine with some food and preferably in the autumn or winter. Very long persistence. Beautiful minerals create a mouthwatering and clean finish.

Asparagus risotto or with pljukanciPic, orata and baraj

Do to its round mouthfeel, it is perfect with dishes that have slightly bitter nuances – grilled Adriatic fish, wild asparagus risotto or with pljukanci, artichokes alla Romana. The earth and natural gas aromas in the nose makes me think this wine would pair well with a fragrant dish of tagliatelle with black or white truffles.
88pts

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{ 6 comments… read them below or add one }

wineandfood4u June 11, 2010 at 11:00

Općenito volim macerirana bijela vina, i ova malvazija doista nije tipična istarska malvazija… vrlo je dobra, ali od Rožanića očekujem još više. S obzirom na uložena sredstva, ljude koji sudjeluju u cijelom (ako mogu reći) projektu, očekujem još jedan korak naprijed. Iz te 2006. mi je njegova Antica malo bolja od Classice. Cabernet sauvignon iz 2006. i Superistrian cuvee 2006. su prava stvar.

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Gogo June 11, 2010 at 11:39

Na zalost, Anticu taj dan nisam probao vec samo Classicu al se sjecam sa Vinistre 2009 da je i meni imala vise emocija da prenese. Mladi enolog Kristijan Rubesa kaze da su nakon 2006. odlucili raditi samo Anticu.
U ovoj mi je smetala tezina u okusima, definitivno su bili prejaki u odnosu na mirise (koji su fantasticni), falila mi je neka nit poveznica (kiseline?) koja bi me vodila kroz neprohodnu sumu. Mozda je to karakteristika crvenice koja daje jace i grublje okuse od bijele zemlje (usporedi sa Malvazijom Sv. Jakov od Claia)? Ili previse novog drva u podrumu? Zbilja ne znam.
Od crnih je meni najdrazi Merlot 2005, nesto manje 2006, jer je napokon netko kod nas ga uspio napraviti bez zelenih vegatalnih aroma, vec sa puno sumskog voca i tercijarnih aroma. Sa 100% Merlotom vidi se da se fura na stil desne obale Bordeauxa. Cabernet Sauvignon i Superistrian su mi trenutno manje dragi, prvi pretezak za moj ukus, a drugi razbacan na sve strane. Ali siguran sam da im treba dati vremena da evoluiraju u boci jer 3 i po godine je premalo. Pisem i za crna tasting notes.
Rozanic eksperimentira i uci, i to je dobro. Odabrao je trnovit put, i treba mu vremena da oformi svoj stil.

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wineandfood4u June 11, 2010 at 14:59

sigurno previše novog barriquea..kiseline bi pomogle boljem balansu.. a merlot 2005, hm, ne sjećam se, morat ću pogledat doma u svoje tasting notes dali sam ga i kada pio.. a sv.hjakov od clai mi je zantno bolji od bilo koje rožanićeve malvazije! 🙂 ja sam Claijev fan!

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Gogo June 14, 2010 at 13:13

da, ja sam isto Claijev fan. posebno je lijepo doći kod njega, pričati s njim, ići od bačve do bačve i probavati. Ma ne treba ni pričati, njegova vina sama pričaju. Želja mi je posjetiti njegove vinograde. Imaš pravo, Sv. jakov je savršeno izbalansiran unatoč preko 15% alkohola, ne znam kako mu to uspjeva, zato sam i napisao da je to vino opasnih namjera jer ga piješ kao vodu a pukne te sa zadrškom
http://manjada.org/2010/03/2008-clai-sv-jakov-malvazija-istrian-malvasia-a-really-dangerous-wine.html
Unatoč balansu, više bi mi se sviđalo da počne raditi vina s manje alkohola. Ovo postaje opasno kao neki dobar porto-madeira-sherry 🙂

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Peter June 12, 2010 at 13:18

Hello!
Nice blog you have. Have you tried any malvazia from Josip Siljan (Vina Siljan)? If so, whats your opinion?

Peter
Sweden

Reply

Gogo June 14, 2010 at 11:24

Hi Peter,
No I did not try any Malvazija from Josip Siljan but thanks for the suggestion. Since he is from Krnica, a village on the east coast of Istria while most winemakers are from the west coast, it would be interesting to see how different microclimate influences Istrian Malvazija. I have some family there so I should definitely pass in his winery this summer.
take care,
Goran

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