Post image for 2007 Emil Tavčar “Kras Malvazija” Istrian Malvasia: Strong body without strong alcohols

2007 Emil Tavčar “Kras Malvazija” Istrian Malvasia: Strong body without strong alcohols

by Gogo on September 29, 2010

in All wines,EatIstria Vino

Here I bring a review of one malvasia that, although moderate in alcohol, managed to seduce me with its complexity, strong body and elegance. The wine is made from 100% Istrian Malvasia but it has completely different style from the one dominant in Istria in the last 15 years or so (last year I wrote about the mainstream style).

The wine comes from Dutovlje, a village in the very center of Kras-Carso – a region shared between Italia and Slovenia settled on a plateau that follows the Adriatic coast from Trieste to Monfalcone. It’s not surprising that Kras gave the name to Karst topography since in some places the soil layer is so shallow that the vines  grow practically from the stone.

Evo jedne malvazije koja, unatoč umjerenim alkoholima, zavodi kompleksnošću, jakim tijelom i elegancijom. Iako je vino 100% istarska malvazija potpuno je drugačijeg stila od onog koje dominira u Istri zadnjih petnaestak godina (pisao sam o mainstream stilu prošle godine).

Dolazi iz Dutovlja u samom središtu Krasa, regije koju dijele Italija i Slovenija a nalazi se na visoravni koja prati obalu Trst-Monfalcone. Uopće ne čudi da je Kras dao ime kršu jer ponegdje je zemljani sloj tako tanak da vinova loza gotovo raste iz samog kamena.


Visualizza Kras / Carso in una mappa di dimensioni maggiori

The soil is red like in most parts of Istria. Traditional vine training system is peculiar, a sort of Tendone/Pergola (picture below). Wko knows why?

Zemlja je crvenica kao i u velikom dijelu Istre. Tradicionalni uzgojni oblik vinove loze je neobičan, neka vrsta pergole (slika dolje). Tko zna zašto?

Vineyards in Kras

Kras wines are different from Istrian and Friulian ones – with strong acidic backbone, of moderate alcohol, with more pronounced minerality than any wine I have ever tasted. It seems like you taste stones dissolved in the wine. Kras wines are a nice example how terroir can be felt in the wine. Due to the average altitude of more than 300 m nights here are chilly even in the summer, a fact that explains why Kras wines are rich in acids and aromatic compounds. Here you can find many winemakers that usually don’t care about the modern trends but tend to transfer their unique personality into their wines – Škerk, Čotar, Kante, Zidarich, Kukanja, Fon, Lupinc… Here winemakers didn’t throw away old wood barrels and replaced them exclusively with modern stainless steel vats.

One of them is Emil Tavčar that ferments this Malvasia without addidition of selected yeasts, with short maceration of 5-10 days and aging in large wooden barrels. Emil says that yield per vine is less then 1.5 kg.

Vina su pak drugačija od istarskih i friulanskih – bogata kiselinama, umjerenog alkohola, sa više minerala nego bilo koje vino koje sam probao. Skoro da osjetite kamen rastopljen u vinu. Kraška vina su školski primjer kako se terroir moze osjetiti u vinu. Zbog prosječne nadmorske visine od oko 300 m noći su ovdje i ljeti hladne, što objašnjava zašto kiselina i aromatskih spojeva u vinima ne manjka. Kras je domovina mnogim karakternim vinarima kojih nije briga za svjetske trendove već tjeraju svoj specifični stil – Škerk, Čotar, Kante, Zidarich, Kukanja, Fon, Lupinc… Ovdje vinari nisu bacili sve svoje stare drvene bačve i zamijenili ih isključivo modernim inox posudama.

Jedan od njih je i Emil Tavčar koji fermentira ovu malvaziju bez selektiranih kvasaca, sa maceracijom od 5-10 dana i odležavanjem u velikim bačvama. Emil kaže da su prinosi po trsu maksimalno 1,5 kg.

2007 Tavčar "Kras Malvazija" - Istrian Malvasia

Straw yellow with golden reflections, not filtered. The nose is complex and elegant, it smell like some good dessert wine. Aromas of yellow flowers, dried fruit (mango) and honey are dominant, then walnuts and essential oil appear in the background, even some petrol note similar to the one found in Riesling.

In the mouth surprise! The wine is not sweet but very, very fresh with fascinating minerals. You can feel the abundance of extract, flavors are intense, almost cutting your taste buds. Medium-full to full bodied, good persistency, all this with moderate alcohol level (12.7%) and you get a very easy drinking wine, even without food. Nevertheless, the freshness of this wine makes it adapted to pair with pasta in thick cream sauces with mushrooms or with seafood like squids, cuttlefish, shrips, lobster, crabs…

Vino je slamnato žute boje sa zlatnim odsjajima, nije filtrirano. Nos je kompleksan i elegantan, ima se osjećaj da nas očekuje neko fino desertno vino – dominira žuto cvijeće, suho voće (mango) i med, u pozadini osjete se lješnjaci, eterična ulja, čak note petroleja slične onima kod rizlinga.

U ustima vino iznenadjuje, vino nije slatko već vrlo, vrlo svježe sa fascinantnim mineralima, osjeti se da je bogato ekstraktima, okusi su snažni, gotovo da režu jezik. Srednje-jakog do jakog je tijela, dobre perzistencije a sve to uz umjerene alkohole (12,7 %) što ga čini vrlo pitkim vinom, čak i bez hrane. Ipak, snažne kiseline čine ga idealnim za sljubiti ga s paštom u težim kremastim umacima sa gljivama, sa škampima, kozicama, rakovima, sipama, lignjama…

85pts
Release price: 12.50 eur

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{ 3 comments… read them below or add one }

wineandfood4u September 30, 2010 at 14:25

nisam čuo za Tavčara , ali zaintrigirao si me! ekipa koju si nabrojao je provjereno dobra pa ko i Tavčara tu ubrajaš…onda ga moram probat! 🙂 … iz Krasa sam inače pio odličnih terana…. dobar post…

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Gogo October 1, 2010 at 11:06

U globalu je Cotar mene najvise odusevio na smotri kraskih vina u Stanjelu u lipnju, al ova Malvazija od Tacvara mi je bila nesto posebno i otkrice kakva sve razlicita vina se mogu dobiti od istarske malvazije. I vitovsku ima odlicnu, crna me nisu toliko odusevila. Da, terani su slasni, slani, s puno voca i kiselina naravno, tesko ih je piti bez hrane a za to nisu ni stvoreni.
Hvala na pohvali, uvijek imam osjecaj da postove o vinima malo tko cita, da je to vise za geek publiku.

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Luis Guillermo Tavcar November 23, 2010 at 00:17

Se ven muy buenos los vinos por la zona y los comwntarios saludos guillermo de bahia blanca argentina

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