Post image for Grdoselo. Retrieval of a lost taste.

Grdoselo. Retrieval of a lost taste.

by Gogo on September 16, 2010

in Tasty adventures

Grdoselo is a little village situated on the slopes of hills that surround lake Butoniga from the South. Beginning of September brings Grdoselski Fair when people scattered all over the world gather in the place from which they, or their ancestors, originate. Our family is also respecting this annual ritual where stories and flavors, which we thought are lost forever, can be found.

Grdoselo malo je selo smješteno na padinama brda koja s juga opasavaju jezero Butoniga. Početak rujna donosi Grdoselski samanj kada se ljudi razasuti po cijelom svijetu skupljaju u mjestu iz kojeg potječu oni ili njihovi preci. I naša fameja drži do tog rituala gdje ponovno pronalazimo priče i okuse za koje smo mislili da smo ih zauvijek izgubili.

Grdo Selo in winter

Unfortunately I have only a panorama of the village taken in the winter, perhaps even better as the picture better transfers the magic of this enchanted place. During the fair everything is still green, the air is full of nostalgia, of the smell of late summer, of the grape harvest that has just begun. The lunch is just starting, let’s hurry up!

Na žalost imam samo panoramu sela snimljenu po zimi, ali možda i bolje jer bolje prenosi magičnost mjesta. U vrijeme samlja još je sve zeleno, zrak je pun nostalgije, mirisa kraja ljeta i berbe grožđa koja upravo počinje. Zovu nas na ručak, ajmo se požuriti!

Kesten ljuljačka

On a festive table together with wine produced in the house (domaće vino), there should be pašareta and oranžada, Istrian varieties of Coca Cola and Fanta produced be family Ferenčić from Pazin. I do not like soft drinks but to me pašareta is something special with its taste reminiscent of pomegranates. Pašareta cannot be found outside of Istria, so don’t miss to try it out when you are here.

Na svečanom stolu se uz domaće vino obavezno mora nalaziti pašareta i oranžada, istarske varijante Coca Cole i Fante koje od pamtivijeka proizvodi obitelj Ferenčić iz Pazina. Ne volim gazirana pića ali meni je pašareta nešto posebno sa svojim okusom koji podsjeća na nar. Pašareta se ne može naći izvan Istre, zato je ne propustite probati.

Pasareta & oranžada

First the chicken noodle soup (a kind of consomme) is served, but not any kind of soup, here they make a soup with taste that comes from ancient times. No soup in my life has yet managed to surpass the one from Grdoselo. What’s the trick? Certainly it is necessary to have a three years old hen that in the morning was running around the yard, but apparently that’s not enough. They say it is important to take water from Grdoselo that, first, is not chlorinated and second, it’s full of minerals that give a special soft, sweet flavor to the soup.

Prije svega služi se juha, ali ne bilo kakva, ovdje služe juhu koja kao da dolazi iz nekih prošlih vremena. Niti jedna juha u mom životu još nije uspjela nadmašiti ovu grdoselsku. U čemu je tajna? Sigurno je potrebno imati domaću trogodišnju koku koja se do malo prije šetala po dvorištu, ali kako mi kažu ni to nije dovoljno. Bitno je uzeti i vodu iz Grdosela koja kao prvo nije klorirana a kao drugo bogata je mineralima koji juhi daju poseban mekani, slatkasti okus.

In Grdoselo the chicken soup is amazing

After the soup, the meat that made the soup is served – chicken and excellent beef, everything from the village, of course. Pickled cucumbers and peppers go perfectly with steamed meat.

Nakon juhe služi se meso koje se kuhalo u juhi – piletina i odlična govedina, sve iz sela naravno. Odlično pašu ukiseljeni krastavci i paprike kao prilog kuhanom mesu.

The meat from the soup

Then it comes fuži pasta in Istrian žgvacet. Although it resembles goulash, žgvacet is different – it is less dense and lighter. It is made only from hens that have to be somewhat younger then the ones for the soup. First, floured pieces of meat are stir fried in olive oil until they get a crust and only then chopped onions are added. When onions get translucent, fresh tomatos (peeled of course) or tomato concentrate are added. Usually, some white wine is added during the simmering process that might last over three hours. So far I have eaten žgvacet in Vela Nera in Pula, in Agritourism Tončić in Zrenj, but also in Italy in Restaurant Suban in Trieste, but nowhere was as good as this one prepared by my relative Alda Mogorović.

Dolaze na red fuži u žgvacetu od kokoške. Iako mu sliči, istarski žgvacet nije gulaš, rjeđi je i lakši. Radi se isključivo od kokoši koja mora biti nešto mlađa one za juhu. Radi se tako da se prvo pobrašnjeni komadi komadi mesa kratko popirjaju na maslinovom ulju dok ne dobiju koricu i tek onda se dodaje nasjeckani luk. Kad luk postakli, dodaje se ili svježi oguljeni pomidor ili koncentrat od pomidora, zna se zalijevati i bijelim vinom i sve skupa se krčka preko tri sata. Dosad sam žgvacet jeo u Vela Neri u Puli, Agroturizmu Tončić u Zrenju pa čak i preko granice u Restoranu Suban u Trstu, ali nigdje nije bio tako dobar kao ovaj od moje rođake Alde Mogorović.

Fuži sa kokošjim šugom

The main dish followed, sarma (cabbage rolls) and sauerkraut, everything cooked with a lot of pork, beef, chicken and some homemade sausages. They say, more kinds of meat you put in the cabbage, better it will taste. Sad to know that such a good dish I can not prepare at home with the meat I buy in the supermarket that is usually untasty, industrial product that nobody knows where it comes from. I’m dreaming of a future in which people will prefer buying groceries from someone they personally know and trust.

Slijedi glavno jelo, sarma i kiseli kupus u kojemu se kuhala svinjetina, govedina, piletina i pokoja kobasica, jer što više različitih mesa to kupus bude ukusniji. Rastužuje me da tako dobar kupus ne mogu skuhati doma sa mesom koje kupim u supermarketu, to je najčešće bezokusno, industrijsko meso došlo tko zna odakle. Maštam o budućnosti u kojoj će ljudi preferirati kupnju namirnica od čovjeka kojeg osobno znaju i kojem vjeruju.

Sauerkraut and sarma

At the end, cookies, petit fours alla istriana. Istrian cuisine does not have plenty of desserts, they are usually based on shortcrust pastry, walnuts, figs and raisins. Cream, milk, butter and chocolate are not at home in Istria.

Na kraju suhi kolači, petit fours alla istriana. Istarska kuhinja siromašna je desertima, oni su najčešće jednostavni na bazi prhkog tijesta, oraha, smokava i grožđica. Kreme, mlijeko, maslac i čokolada ne stanuju ovdje.

Petit fours for the end

After lunch, it’s time to go for an adventure.

Few kilometers to the North there is a hill below which Grdoselski stream is passing on its way towards the lake Butoniga. Right on top of the hill there are ruins of ancient citadel of Grdoselo, known as Zelen Grad (Castelverde). The place is famous because in 19th century a local priest found Grdoselski ulomak – stone tablet from the 12th century, written in Glagolitic alphabet.

Nakon ručka krenimo u avanturu.

Par kilometara prema sjeveru nalazi se brdašce ispod kojeg teče Grdoselski potok koji napaja jezero Butonigu. Na vrhu tog brda mogu se naći ruševine nekadašnjeg starog grdoselskog kaštela Zelen Grada (Castelverde) gdje je krajem 19. stoljeća lokalni svećenik pronašao Grdoselski zapis – kamenu ploču iz 12. stoljeća ispisanu glagoljicom.

Grdoselski ulomak from 12th century

Just before the village cemetery, turn right onto the white road that abruptly descends into the valley (picture below). The road is very well marked so it’ impossible to get lost.

Nešto prije seoskog groblja, valja skrenuti desno na bijelu cestu koja se naglo spušta u dolinu (na slici dolje). Put je odlično markiran pa se teško možemo izgubiti.

on the way to Zelen Grad - Castelverde citadel

Here I am ending the story, in fact the photos that follow (click on them to see them in full resolution) speak better than any words. And adventure would not be exciting if I now discover all the details, isn’t that so? Enjoy the photos and come to visit Grdoselo and its surroundings

Ovdje stajem s pričom jer slike koje slijede (kliknite na njih da ih vidite u boljoj rezoluciji) govore više od riječi. A avantura ne bi bila avantura kad bi vam sve otkrio, zar ne? Nadam se da će vas fotke uspjeti namamiti da dođete posjetiti grdoselski kraj.

on the way to Zelen Grad - Castelverde

on the way to Zelen Grad - Castelverde

The church of Kršikla

close to Zelen Grad - Castelverde citadel

Entrance in Zelen Grad citadel

The ruins of Zelen Grad - Castelverde citadel

Crni puč and its waterfall

Waterfall at Crni Puč near Grdoselo

The water was perfect!

Crni puč - the beach od Grdoselo

On the way back to Grdo Selo


View Grdo Selo in a larger map

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{ 5 comments… read them below or add one }

Branimir September 25, 2010 at 18:39

Wonderful pictures! Really stunning nature at the end of the trip! 🙂

Reply

Gogo September 27, 2010 at 10:26

Thanks Branimir! If you would like to write a food inspired adventure from Slavonia for Manjada you are more than welcome. Slavonia is another region that hides a lot of authentic and sincere food coming from common people.

Reply

margarinca August 28, 2011 at 14:15

Pozdrav. Probala istražiti izvor pasarete i našla sam je i na području Slovenije, u Ajdovščini, gdje je poznaju več od 1907 i još je proizvode (ista obitelj). Pila sam je i ja kao djete, ali su me neki stariji ljudi htjeli uvjeriti da se ne proizvodi više još od kad su oni bili mladi…
http://www.tic-ajdovscina.si/?vie=cnt&id=2009072916180071&lng=slo

Reply

Gogo August 29, 2011 at 10:23

Hvala na ovom uzbudljivom otkriću da i Slovenci svoju pašaretu imaju. Vipavska dolina mi je blizu tako je slijedeći put moram probati i usporediti je s našom iz Pazina. Izvrsno je to piće za razne koktele, šteta da se ne koristi na kreativan način u našim kafićima.

Reply

Richard Mogorovich November 7, 2012 at 01:05

Thank you for this culinary trip to Grdoselo. I was good to see one of my relatives(?) Alda Mogorovic help with the cooking. Greeting from Australia and send me some more recipes from Grdoselo
ciao
Richard Mogorovich

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