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Trattoria/gostilna Devetak: Redefining classic Karst dishes

by Gogo on April 22, 2011

in Restaurants

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Last year, we visited gostilna “Devetak” two times, once in May and once in September. Each time we were truly amazed with the food we ate in this family-run restaurant owned by Avguštin Devetak. The ingredients were always fresh and seasonal, some of them coming straight from their garden, and were prepared by the main chef Gabriella with great care and respect for tradition of Karst. But tradition wouldn’t be so delicious if there wasn’t Gabriella’s discreet creativity, her secret ingredient that put her dishes on higher level.

Exactly this kind of cooking, where a delicate balance between tradition and modernity is established, is what is still missing in Istrian restaurants.

To get the impression about the food they serve here is what can be read on their webpage:

Other than the characteristic hand-sliced prosciutto, the most traditional recipes include “Šelinka”, which is a minestrone made from celery and pork cooked on a wood-burning stove for at least 6 hours; “mlinzi” (home-made oven-baked pasta); risotto made with a flavoursome cheese from the Karst region known as “Jamar”; “supeta” (chicken stew); Karst kid and lamb; local game served with fruit; Karst-style fillet of beef. Then there are the typical desserts such as “Gibanica” (Ghibanizza), “Štruklji kuhani” and “Bela potica” which have been handed down through the generations… and so much more…

Wine list is extensive with wine cellar that gathers the most important wines of Friuli, nearby Slovenia (Brda and Vipava valley) but also Istrian wines from Degrassi (Bomarchese, Teran Terre Rosse) and Clai (Sv. Jakov, Ottocento bijelo, Ottocento crno). Warm hospitality and great service, cosy ambient, precise and creative cooking, everything at Devetak’s is amazing! It enters on my TOP5 restaurant list. And at the end, while you wait for the bill (about 95 euros for two persons with a bottle of wine) you can even buy the jams prepared by daughter of Avguštin.

I hope that after enjoying the following photos you will get or a lot of culinary inspiration or a wish to visit gostilna Devetak as soon as possible.

Gostilna / Trattoria Devetak
Frazione San Michele, 48
34070 Savogna d’Isonzo Gorizia
phone: +39 0481 882488
web: www.devetak.com


First visit: May 2010 – Spring Menu

Amuse-bouche

Paté as amuse-bouche at Devetak
Meat paté as amuse-bouche

First courses – Primi

Tagliolini (fresh pasta) with laurel-flavoured wild boar meat
Tagliolini (fresh pasta) with laurel-flavoured wild boar meat
Tagliolini (pasta fresca) con il cinghiale all’alloro

Rotolo di pasta lievitata con ricotta e spinaci su fonduta di Tabor
Leavened dough roll with ricotta and spinach over fondue of Tabor cheese
Rotolo di pasta lievitata con ricotta e spinaci su fonduta di Tabor

Second courses – Secondi

Roe-deer or wild boar leg* served with polenta and wild berries jam
Roe-deer or wild boar leg served with polenta and wild berries jam
Coscia di capriolo o cinghiale con polenta e frutti di bosco in confettura

Modern Karst-style tender beef fillet served with chives and parsley sauce and pan-fried potatoes
Modern Karst-style tender beef fillet served with chives and parsley sauce and pan-fried potatoes
Filetto moderno di vitellone alla carsolina con la cipollina, la salsa al prezzemolo e le patate in tecia

Wine

2007 Gradisciutta Cabernet Franc - Collio DOC
2007 Gradisciutta Cabernet Franc – Collio DOC

Desserts – Dolci

Ice cream fantasy at Devetak
Ice cream fantasy
Fantasia di gelati

Tris of sorbettos
Tris of sorbettos
Tris di sorbetti

Petit fours

Petit fours at Devetak


Second visit: September 2010 – Summer Menu

Welcome drink

Prosecco as welcome drink
Prosecco

Amuse-bouche

Breaded autumn mushrooms
Breaded autumn mushrooms
Funghi impanati

Appetizers – Antipasti

Spuma di yogurt con peperoni arrostiti al forno e farciti di ricotta alla menta
Yoghurt foam with roasted peppers filled with mint-flavored ricotta
Spuma di yogurt con peperoni arrostiti al forno e farciti di ricotta alla menta

Olive oil ice cream with black tapenade and Bianchera olive oil toppingOlive oil ice cream with black tapenade and Bianchera olive oil topping
Olive oil ice cream with black tapenade and Bianchera olive oil topping
Gelato all’olio d’oliva con lustrik e patè di olive nere

First courses – Primi

My “supeta” (palačinke with chicken stew –  a traditional recipe)
My “supeta” (palačinke with chicken stew – a traditional recipe)

Second courses – Secondi

Petto di faraona avvolto nel lardo alle erbe su purè rosa con Pimento della Giamaica e miele Mielizia
Guinea fowl breasts rolled in aromatic-herb bacon over pink puree with Jamaican Pimento and Mielizia honey
Petto di faraona avvolto nel lardo alle erbe su purè rosa con Pimento della Giamaica e miele Mielizia

Side dishes – Contorni

Peperonata

Wine

2008 Livon
2008 Livon “Refosco del Peduncolo Rosso”

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{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }

Chad September 13, 2011 at 20:38

Greetings,
I’ve greatly enjoyed your blog, although I can only read part of it! I’ll be travelling through Istria for a few days and am curious where you would recommend eating and perhaps cities/towns worth stopping in. We’re planning on Rovinj and perhaps Pula. Any advice you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Regards,
Chad

Reply

Gogo September 14, 2011 at 09:08

Dear Joseph,
Thank you for reading Manjada!
Recently I decided to change the concept of this blog and start to write in Croatian, apart the wine reviews that I’ll continue to write in English and Croatia. This is because since few month ago I write recommendation on restaurants, fine dining, good wines and traditional products from Istria and whole Croatia on Taste of Croatia web. It’s a project that I started together with other three girls, also food and wine bloggers like me. We also have a Taste of Croatia Android app that can be useful on the road to find all these hidden gourmet spots.
Here is what you can find in Pula and surroundings, the area that in my opinion has the best gourmet scene in Istria:
http://www.tasteofcroatia.org/tag/pula/
In Rovinj go to Restaurant Giannino in the old town. A must is to see Kamenjak promontory, a beautiful nature park at the tip of Istria. Don’t miss the hinterland with hilltop town Motovun and its truffle oak wood, Oprtalj, Grožnjan, small village Beram with beautiful fresco The Dance of the Dead and a nice tavern Vela Vrata
Keep in touch,
Goran

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