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Last of the season tomatoes “cooked” by gravity

by Gogo on October 11, 2011

in Carbs,EatIstria Recipes

Here is a very simple tomato sauce recipe (šalša in Istria) for all of you that search for authentic taste of tomatoes. Prepared without the heat!

Gravity made tomato sauce

Evo jednostavnog recepta za sve one koji traže nepatvoreni okus pomidora. Dame i gospodu, radimo šalšu bez termičke obrade!

Hrvatska verzija

Near eastern stone wall of Oio Manjadico olive grove in Medulin, in a warm wind-shielded area below one fig tree, thrive several bushes of cherry tomatos. Santina tells me they plant themselves each year and need no care. These are surelu last of the season home produced tomatoes and it would be a pity to leave these juicy berries for the birds. They are sweet as cherries and with a bit of work you can get excellent tomato sauce – šalša as they say in Istria. This time will prepare it an unusual way, without using the heat.

Non-thermal “cooking” of šalša

Pass the tomatoes through a food mill to remove the skins and seeds. Inside a pasta strainer put a perfectly clean kitchen cloth that doesn’t smell at all of detergent or fabric softener. Fix the cloth with few pegs. Pour in your freshly made super cool gadget the tomato pulp. Cover and leave in a fridge for an hour or two (depends on the quantity) until you get a nice and thick šalša as if you cooked it. We are using the properties of fabric fibers that through capillary action drain efficiently the water from the šalša. Gravity does the job instead of you.

Then, cook your favorite pasta al dente. I adore orecchiette. In a pan heat the best extra-virgin olive oil you can get, add a smashed garlic clove with the skin and fry it for only one minute. Remove the garlic. Serve the pasta, pour over few spoons of the oil and at the end add the super fresh and fragrant šalša.

Just for fun I created also a deconstructed version of Venetian bigoli with tomato sauce. You serve everything separately: the pasta on a plate, the šalša in a jar and the oil in a container. Note the oil with plenty of garlic slices inside. This is recommended only for garlic freaks like me who don’t care about their mouth odor afterwards. 🙂

pomodorini iz MedulinaSantina u pomidorimaNon-thermally "cooked" šalša - tomato sauceNon-thermally "cooked" šalša - tomato sauceDeconstruction of šalša tomato sauce and spaghetti

Uz istočni suhozid Oio Manjadico maslinika u Medulinu, u toploj zavjetrini ispod jedne smokve, odlučilo se nastaniti par divljih grmova pomidorina. Santina mi kaže da se svake godine sami zasade i ne zahtijevaju nikakvu njegu. Ona ih ne voli jer imaju previše kožica i sjemena a malo mesa. Ko neće ona, ću ih ja potamanit! Nećemo te slatke bobice ostavit pticama. To mi je zadnja šansa ove sezone za uživanciju u domaćim pomidorima a ove obožavam jer su slatki baš kao trešnje i uz malo truda može se dobiti izvrsna šalša. Evo super jednostavnog recepta za sve one koji traže iskonski, nepatvoreni okus pomidora. Pripremit ćemo je na neuobičajen način, bez kuhanja.

Šalša bez termičke obrade

Stvar je vrlo jednostavna. Ispasirajte pomidorine u pasirki da odstranite kožice i sjemenke. Na školapaštu (cjedilo za tjesteninu) stavite perfektno čistu kuhinjsku krpu koja nema ni malo mirisa na deterđent ili omekšivač. Učvrstite krpu sa nekoliko štipalica. Ulijte u vašu novu super cool napravu ispasirane pomidorine. Poklopite s poklopcem i ostavite u frižideru sat, dva, ovisno o količini, dok šalša ne postane gusta kao da ste je kuhali. Nije potrebno ručno protiskivati smjesu kroz sito, to je živa muka. Umjesto toga koristimo svojstva tekstilnih vlakana koji kapilarnim silama odvode vodu iz smjese. Gravitacija radi umjesto vas.

Zatim, skuhajte vašu omiljenu paštu al dente. Ja obožavam orecchiette. Zagrijte u padeli najbolje maslinovo ulje koje imate, zgnječite jedan češanj češnjaka zajedno sa korom i pirjajte ga na ulju najviše jednu minutu. Izvadite češanj. Poslužite paštu, dodajte prvo par žlica ulja a potom vašu svježu i mirisnu svježu šalšu.

Iz zabave napravio sam i dekonstruiranu verziju venecijanskih bigola sa šalšom. Poslužite sve dijelove jela odvojeno: paštu na tanjur, šalšu u teglici a ulje u posebnoj posudici. Primjetite ulje s brdo isjeckanog češnjaka unutra. Preporučuje se samo zagriženim češnjak frikovima koji ne mare puno za miris svoga daha nakon jela. 🙂

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{ 5 comments… read them below or add one }

Nevena October 11, 2011 at 20:00

ma, fantastičan umak, ajme što ja obožavam rajčice, to je nešto nemoguće 😀 volim aromatizirano maslinovo na ovaj način tj. sa gnječenim češnjakom, od jednog poznanika sam vidjela da tako priprema olio, aglio &peperoncino, znači ne isjecka češnjak, nego ga samo zgnječi, kaže da je to najpravilniji način. od tad i ja tako radim. :))

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Gogo October 12, 2011 at 10:31

ne pričaj mi o obožavanju kulta pomidora… uff, dolazi jesen i zima sa odvratnim brašnastim pomidorima iz staklenika koje naravno da neću kupovati

Reply

Clem October 11, 2011 at 20:25

Garlic freaks unite! I thought I had made the last šalša of the season yesterday, but now I have to buy more tomatoes and try that absolutely.

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Gogo October 12, 2011 at 10:35

I would put garlic everywhere. Maybe because of garlic my blood pressure is too low that in the mornings I feel so sleepy.
Are there any good desserts with garlic?

Reply

Clem October 12, 2011 at 15:39

I don’t know about garlic desserts, but I love to eat the caramelized piece of garlic that sometimes burn in my pan 🙂

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