Post image for Sapori in cantina 2011: Six-course food & wine pairing on the roads of Collio

Sapori in cantina 2011: Six-course food & wine pairing on the roads of Collio

by Gogo on October 27, 2011

in All wines,Tasty adventures

[SLIDESHOW] Our neighbors from Friuli invented a food & wine event from a fairy tale. Imagine a six-course Sunday lunch but every course is served in another winery.
The colors of Collio in autumn
[SLIDESHOW] Naši susjedi Friulani smislili su enogastronomski događaj kao iz bajke. Nedjeljni ručak od šest slijedova ali svaki od njih jede se u drugom vinskom podrumu.

Our neighbors from Friuli invented a food & wine event from a fairy tale. Imagine a six-course Sunday lunch but every course is served in another winery. The wineries are located on a circular route that passed through the hills. There’s a shuttle bus that passes every 20 minutes and drives you to the next winery. If you wish so, you can choose a detour walking trail through vineyards and forest, all colored in beautiful autumnal colors. The task of each winery is to perfectly match a dish and one of its wines. There’s a lot of wine in Collio and usually winemakers are not cheap so it’s quite possible you’ll get “in the good mood” without worrying about loosing your driver’s license. Awesome! It’s a real Marry-Go-Around for us wine geeks and foodies.

It is a great exaple of “experience” tourism that is extremely important for efficient promotion of the territory. Here is how it was, already 4th year in a row, on Sunday 23rd October in Dolegna del Collio, a little village in northern part of Collio that is maybe the most prestigious DOC of all Friuli region. From this terroir come whites whose quality is recognized all over the world while the whole region was an inspiration and a model for Istrian wine renaissance at the beginning of the 90ties.

Naši susjedi Friulani smislili su enogastronomski događaj kao iz bajke. Nedjeljni ručak od šest slijedova ali svaki od njih jede se u drugom vinskom podrumu. Podrumi su smješteni na kružnoj brdskoj ruti a između njih svakih 20 minuta vozi shuttle bus. Ako vam se da, dio puta možete preći i pješke i uživati u jesenskim bojama šuma i vinograda. Zadatak podruma je naravno pobrinuti se da jelo savršeno sljubi sa jednim od svojih vina. Vina ima puno a vinari najčešće nisu škrti tako da možete bez straha, jer okolo vas razvozi bus, potegnuti i za čašicom više. Genijalno! Pravi ringišpil za nas izješe i vinopije.

Pravi primjer iskustvenog turizma koji je neprocjenjivo važan za efikasnu promociju teritorija. Evo kako je to bilo već četvrtu godinu za redom u nedjelju 23. listopada u Dolegni del Collio, malom selu u sjevernom dijelu Collia što je možda najprestižniji DOC u cijelom Friuliju. Iz tog terroira dolazi mnogo bijelih vina čija kvaliteta je u samom svjetskom vrhu a cijela ta regija bila je inspiracija i uzor istarskoj vinskoj renesansi s početka 90tih godina.
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Tickets: Adults 29 eura, 15 eura for kids from 6-16 godina (25/13 euros if you buy it advance), smaller kids for free. You get a tasting glass and vouchers for every winery.
Sapori in Cantina 2011 - cassaSapori in Cantina 2011 - coupons
Ulaznica: 29 eura za odrasle, 15 eura za djecu od 6-16 godina (25 ili 13 u pretprodaji), manja djeca besplatno. Dobijete degustacijsku čašu i kupone koje predajete u svakom podrumu.
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In the bus we were welcomed by Elena, our first bus guide, who was telling us about history of the area and showed us the important buildings. If only Elena’s microphone had been working, the atmosphere would have been identical like on a school excursion! :)
Elena, our first guide in the bus
U busu nas je dočekala Elena, naša vodičkinja, koja nam je pričala o povijesti i znamenitostima pokraj kojih smo se vozili. Odmah se stvorila opuštena atmosfera školskih ekskurzija, samo joj je mikrofon falio za potpun doživljaj :)
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1st stop. Mernico, Dino Turco winery. The whole family is working at the counter. We are still in the valley.
1st stop - Family Turco in action1st stop - Salumi Friulani
1. stanica. Mernico, podrum Dino Turco. Poslužuje nas cijela familija. Još smo uvijek u dolini. Slovenija je ovdje preko plota tako da ne čudi naziv za Dolegna del Collio – Dolina od Brda.
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2009 Dino Turco Friulano – white flowers and ripe melon in the nose, in the mouth it is soft with a touch of clay. Characteristic bitter almond aftertaste.
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1st stop. Tasty Friuli charcuterie, full of aromas, of delicate and mellow flavor: garlif salami, speck of g. Drocknera, Culatta Real Comoda (similar to culatello). Homemade pickled veggies in agrodolce. Friulano matched the dish with perfection.
1st stop - charcuterie mix and pickled vegetables
1. stanica. Izvrsna friulanska suhomesa delikatna su, prepuna aroma i slatkastog okusa: salama sa češnjakom, speck g. Drocknera, Culatta Real Comoda (najbolji dio pršuta, slično culatellu). Domaće ukiseljeno povrće. Friulano se savršeno uklopio.
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2009 Dino Turco Friulano - bijelo cvijeće (kali) i zrela dinja u nosu, u ustima mekano, kao da se osjeti glina. Na kraju karakteristični gorki badem.
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1st stop. This stop was animated by a one-man band who is a big fan of the latest wireless technology. It seems he likes to sing and dance among the audience and not on the stage. Not my kind of stuff…
1st stop - One man bandCorn for polenta
1. stanica. Za animaciju je bio zadužen one-man band koji je prigrlio sva moderna čuda bežične tehnologije. Jer voli pjevati i plesati među publikom a ne na bini. Prestrašno…
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On the road again. The bus climbs up the steep road that leads to Scrio village up in the hills. Luckily, I didn’t drink a lot otherwise, with all these curves, I would surely need an “emergency” plastic bag.
Curvy road near ScrioOn the way to Scrio
Krećemo uskim cestama ravno uz strma brda prema selu Scrio. Dobro da još nismo puno pili jer bi mi zbog ovih ludih zavoja mogla zatrebati famozna emergency vrećica.
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2009 Grudina Sauvignon – aroma of elderberry, honey, aromatic herbs and a hint of vegetable notes (green cabbage). More fresh and more mineral than the Friulano from the valley, it can be felt we are drinking a wine coming from the nearby steep slopes. In the mouth a bit of old wine cellar with a slight bitter finish.
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2nd stop. In Grudina winery they decorated stainless steel vats with BW photos of the old part of Scrio village. Nice idea! We get real homemade gnocchi, al dente and not sticky to the teeths, with arugula sauce and a glass of Grudina sauvignon that was a real blast.
2nd stop - serving gnocchi with arugula sauce
2. stanica.U podrumu Grudina ukrasili su čelične bačve sa crno bijelim slikama starog dijela sela Scrio. Zgodna ideja. Služe nam prave domaće njoke, al dente baš kako treba, sa umakom od rukole i njihovim sauvignonom. Koji me oborio s nogu.
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2009 Grudina Sauvignon - miris na bazgu, med, aromatične suhe trave i povrtne note kao svježi kupus. Svježije i izraženije mineralnosti od friulana iz nizine, vidi se da pijemo vino koje dolazi s obližnjih strmih brežuljaka. U ustima malo starinskog podruma i gorkasti finiš.
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2nd stop. Here the band was much more fun and they touched my heart when they sang a typical Liscio Romagnolo song, heartbreaking ode to Romagna: Romagna miaaaa… I felt like on a typical Istrian wedding and my heart started to melt down… LOL
2nd stop - The band was singing Romagna miaaaa
2. stanica. Ovdje je bend bio puno zabavniji a dirnuli su me kad su zapjevali moj omiljeni dvokorak, ili liscio kako se to zove u Romagni, srcedrapajuću odu zavičaju: Romagna miaaaa… Osjećao sam se kao na tipičnom istarskom piru, jooooj topilo mi se srce…
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While we were waiting for the bus I admired the landscape. I love the slogan of Collio – Collio, the landscape to drink.
Collio in the mist
Collio, a landcape to drinkVine leafs in autumn
Dok smo čekali drugi bus divio sam se jesenskim bojama a napose sloganu vinske regije Collio. Collio – pejzaž koji se pije. Zamisli koji raj, gledaš, gledaš pejzaž i odjednom si na podu od pijanstva :)
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Spring is nice but autumnal colors are something special. Spot a vineyard that is half red, half yellow.
The colors of Collio in autumn
Proljeće je lijepo ali jesenske boje nemaju premca. Uočite vinograd koji je napola crven, napola žut.
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The first vintage Fiat we found on our way. Niceeee… I wonder why the car industry does not introduce again quarter window (the small triangular side window to the foremost of the front door main glass). It is natural air conditioning and you consume less gas.
Vintage Fiat in Collio
Prvi vintage Fiat kojeg smo uočili. Lijepoooo… Pitam se zašto više ne rade aute sa trokutastim prozorčićima na prednjim vratima da kontrolirano upuhuju zrak po ljeti. To je zdravije od klime i manje se benzina troši.
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3rd stop. We continue uphill towards a castle where two wineries, Ronco Scagnet and Zorutti, are taking care of us. Here I was delighted with Ronco Scagnet Vignis Rossis, an elegant blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc with a lot of red flowers and gentle structure without too much extract. A very food friendly wine. I adore C. Franc, I think in this part of the world (also in Istria) It can give better results than C. Sauvignon.
3rd stop - A gate in Lonzano3rd stop - A nice Bordeaux blend from Ronco Scagnet
3. stanica. Nastavljamo bijelim putem uzbrdo prema dvorcu gdje se predstavljaju dva podruma, Ronco Scagnet i Zorutti. Ovdje me posebno oduševio Ronco Scagnetov Vignis Rossis, elegantna kupaža merlota i cabernet franca sa puno crvenog cvijeća i nježnog tijela bez previše ekstrakta. Baš pravo food friendly vino. Volim c. franc, čini mi se da u ovim krajevima, uključujući i Istru, daje bolje rezultate od c. sauvignona.
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3rd stop. Minestrone of porcini and Portobello mushrooms with potatoes. The essence of the autumn. Paired with Ronco Scagnet Chardonnay aged in barrique. No worries, no sign of overoaked chardonnay here, everything is so floral, fluffy and light in this wine.
3rd stop - Mushroom and potato soup
3. stanica. Maneštra od vrganja i šampinjonima sa krumpirom. Esencija jeseni. Sljubljena sa Ronco Scagnetovim barrique Chardonnayom. Ne brinite, ni traga overoaked chardonnayu ovdje, sve je tako cvjetno, lepršavo i lagano u tom vinu.
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The wine started to heat up the atmosphere. In the bus that drove us towards the next winery in Ruttars it was fun. One guy start to play a local folk song on harmonica and immediately the whole bus started to sing, including few teenagers.

Vino je počelo djelovati pa je u busu koji je vozio do slijedećeg podruma u selu Ruttars bilo je vrlo veselo. Jedan tip je krenuo svirati na usnoj harmonici i u čas cijeli autobusom se orila neka vesela narodna koju su znali i tinejdžeri.
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4th stop. In Crastin winery I tasted the best white wine of the whole tour – 2009 Crastin Pinot Bianco. Complex aromas of ripe yellow fruits, dried white flowers and wet clay, soft and rounded, strong bodied, full of juicy extract that coats your mouth and then does not want to wash out. Something smells so nice from the nearby entrance… Mmm… Let’s peep in.
4th stop - a great pinot blanc of Crastin winery4th stop - Crastin winery
4. stanica. Došli smo u podrum Crastin gdje sam probao najbolje bijelo vino cijele ture, njihov pinot bijeli. Jakog tijela, kompleksnog mirisa na zrelo žuto voće i mokru glinu, mekano i zaokruženo, prepun sočnog ekstrakta koji ti oblijepi usta i ne daje se isprati. Nešto je tako lijepo zamirisalo iz susjednog ulaza… mmmm… Ajmo provirit.
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4th stop. One dear lady returned a shy smile to me while mixing sauerkraut that was cooking in a huge casserole. Something else was hiding in the oven. Let’s check what we’ll get for our fourth voucher. By practicing this on the road gastronomy it’s easy to get hungry.
4th stop - preparing the sausages4. stanica.
Jedna draga gospođa sramežljivo mi se nasmiješila miješajući kiseli kupus. Nešto se tu još skrivalo u pećnici… Nego, ajmo mi prekoputa vidit šta nam to nude za naš četvrti kupon. Od ove lutajuće enogastronomije se ogladni jako brzo.
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4th stop. Sauerkraut and sausages baked in wine were served with a glass of not very memorable Cabernet Franc. It was still a bit “frizzante”.
4th stop - Sausages and sauerkraut4. stanica.
Osim kiselog kupusa dobili smo i kobasice kuhane u vinu zajedno sa čašom cabernet franca koji me nije toliko oduševio, kao da je bio malo frizzante.
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We decided to go by foot on the other side of the village of Ruttars. The weather was variable and the light was changing all the time. In one minute it was possible to take several photos each with a different atmosphere.
On the way to Ruttars5th stop - Hilly vineyards
Krenuli smo pješke vinogradima na drugi kraj Ruttarsa. Vrijeme je bilo poluoblačno, svjetlo se stalno mijenjalo pa je pejzaž bio izrazito dinamičan i neprestano se mijenjao. U jednoj minuti mogao si napraviti par fotki potpuno različitih atmosfera.
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5th stop. The last savoury dish was served in Pascolo winery. We got a choice of traditional Friuli cheeses: a milky and mild latteria and two kinds of Montasio, the first aged for 5 months and the second for 12 months. Paired with a great Bordeaux blend Pascal from 2007. This was without any doubt the best red of the whole tour, with powerful fruit and soft tannins.
5th stop menu5th stop - Montasio cheeses and the best red of the tour
5. stanica. Zadnje slano jelo posluživalo se u podrumu Pascolo. Dobili smo izbor tipičnih friulanskih sireva: mliječna i blaga latteria te dva Montasia, jedan odležan 5 mjeseci i drugi 12 mjeseci. Sve sljubljeno sa odličnom bordoškom kupažom Pascal iz 2007. To je bilo najbolje crno vino cijele ture, moćne voćnosti i mekanih tanina.
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It’s time to go downhill and return to the valley.
Valley near Dolegna del Collio
Došlo je vrijeme da se spustimo u dolinu i krenemo na slatko.
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6th stop. In Norina Pez winery they made their best and served us gubana, tradicional walnut pie from Friuli with raisins and pine nuts, and something you don’t eat everyday but at the same time is so simple and tasty – a pie with red grapes. Gubana is traditionally served after it’s well soaked with slivovica (plum brandy) and the one we got was a real alcohol bomb. Desert wine was their entry-level Verduzzo, a variety that always surprise me with nice freshness and etheric, waxy mouthfeel in the finish.
6th stop - pairing gubana and red grape pie with Verduzzo
6. stanica. U podrumu Norina Pez baš su se potrudili posluživši nam gubanu, tradicionalnu friulansku orehnjaču sa grožđicama i pinjolima, te nešto što se ne sreće tako često a tako je jednostavno i fino – pitu od dizanog tijesta sa crnim grožđem. Gubana se tradicionalno služi natopljena šljivovicom a ovu naša je bila prava alkoholna bomba. Desertno vino bio je njihov bazni Verduzzo, sorta koja me uvijek ugodno iznenadi svojom žilavom svježinom i eteričnim, voštenim notama (propolis) na kraju.
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6th stop. I managed to grab a dash of their Verduzzo Aurea Divina made from dried grapes (passito) that is an explosion of aromas and flavors, honey, dry apricots, smoke… It is hard to describe it, in each sip is different. A great meditation wine. I was already a bit stoned so any decent tasting was out of question. Later I heard they make also Picolit, a very rare and moody variety that gives the most precious dessert wine in this part of the world.
6th stop - a world-class Verduzzo passitoAutumn vine6. stanica.
6. stanica. Ja sam se još uspio ogrebati za passito verziju njihovog verduzza Aurea Divina koji je prava eksplozija okusa i mirisa, med, suhe marelice, dimljene note… Ludo nešto, pravo vino za meditaciju. Al bio sam već pod gasom za bilo kakvu ozbiljnu degustaciju. Poslije sam čuo da rade i Picolit, vrlo rijetka i ćudljiva vinska sorta koje daje najcjenjenije desertno vino ovih krajeva.
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Admiring a vintage Fiatu 1100…
The end - admiring a vintage Fiat 1100
Malo divljenja vintage Fiatu 1100…
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For the end, roasted chetnuts with young and sweet, still not completely fermented Ribolla. BTW, I’m looking forward for this weekend to meet up my blog comrade gurwomen who is going to be my guest in Pula and is bringing a box of Portugizac – Croatian version of Beaujolais. We’ll drink it with lovranski maruni – famous gigantic chestnuts coming from Lovran, on the slopes of Učka mountain.
The end - roasted chestnuts with young and sweet Ribolla
I pečeni kesteni sa mladom, još neprovrelom i poluslatkom ribollom/rebulom za kraj. Usput, jedva čekam vikend da mi u posjetu dođe gurwomen sa pošiljkom kontinentalnih portugizaca pa da ih potamanimo sa gigantskim marunima.
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Sapori in Cantina 2011 - visitor provenanceManjada in Collio

At the end, we put two pins on a map that was put by the organizers to register where they guests come from. We were the only Istrians there. Too bad, there was plenty of people even from more distant places – Munchen, Bologna, Treviso, Austria… Dear representatives of Istrian tourist boards and Vinistra wine fair, dear Istrian winemakers and innkeepers, dear Istrian in generals, please do come next year to Dolegna del Collio to see how gourmet&wine tourism and promotion of a certain micro-territory has to be done properly. Open wine day in Istria is a good start but it is not enough. Much more can be done only if local authorities would support new and creative ideas coming from the people, from a crazy entusiast, bloggers, artists, housewives and retired people… Who knows, maybe next year I’ll organize Sapori in Cantina in Istria together with my friends from the Taste of Croatia team. That is my dream.

Here we are, all good things come to an end. It was nice to spend this Sunday outdoors and feel like the summer la dolce vita is still around. To switch off the brain for few hours, synergetically enjoying in beautiful stimuli of all our senses.

Za kraj stavili smo dvije pribadače u mapu koju su organizatori postavili da bi vidjeli odakle im dolaze njihovi gosti. Od cijele Istre, samo nas dva brižna. A bilo je ljudi čak iz Minhena, Bologne, Verone, Ljubljane… Zato druge godine, Istrijani moji, predstavnici turističkih zajednica i Vinistre, vinari i ugostitelji, put pod noge i pravac Collio da vidite kako se radi enogastronomski turizam i promocija nekog mikroteritorija na svjetskom nivou. Dani otvorenih podruma krajem svibnja jesu dobar početak ali nije to dovoljno. Može se puno toga više napraviti samo da malo više svježih i kreativnih ideja, koje dolaze odozdo, od ludih pojedinaca, blogera, umjetnika, domaćica i umirovljenika, dobiju podršku lokalne vlasti. Tko zna, možda druge godine zajedno sa ekipom iz Taste of Croatia uspijemo organizirati Sapori in Cantina u Istri. To mi je san.

Eto ga, finili su mare bali što bi rekli Istrijani. Bilo je lijepo provesti ovu nedjelju na svježem zraku i osjećati se kao da ljetna la dolce vita još uvijek traje. Na par sati ostaviti mozak na pašu i sinergistički uživati u zamamnim podražajima svih čula.

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{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }

wineandfood4u October 31, 2011 at 14:13

odlično! …eh..koliko bi toga mogli naučiti od njih.. istrijani već jesu na tom putu pomalo, ali ostali opasno kaskaju..

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Gogo November 2, 2011 at 11:08

Istina. U necem je Istra i ispred nasih zapadnih susjeda. Evo na primjer ovaj vikend je u Istri dan otvorenih vrata agroturizama. 50 kn meni, casa vina ukljucena i isto tako mozes ici od jednog do drugog. Bit ce sigurno zabavno tako da se to ne propusta. Samo je bed da se mora voziti, Sapori in Cantina su genijalni bas zbog tog shuttle busa.

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Mauro Perusin November 3, 2011 at 06:26

Thank you!

On behalf of the Pro Loco “Pieri Zorut”, the municipal administration of Dolegna del Collio and all the people who have worked so hard before, during and after the event, we feel in duty to thank you for the wonderful service published.
Again congratulations for the pictures, and the attention to detail and description of the dishes tasted.
We hope you will participate again next year.
Mauro Perusin
334 276 3509

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Gogo November 3, 2011 at 11:46

Dear Mauro,
Thank you so much for your comment! It is always a pleasure to write about well organized events and that offered me a lot of emotions. Please forward the link of this article to dear winemakers who really did a great job. Hope to see you again in Dolegna next year and in the meantime maybe some of you will also come to Istria to enjoy our Malvazija and prosciutto istriano :)
Ciao!
Goran

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