Post image for Over-dozed spinach pasta in love with a beautiful Dalmatian white wine

Over-dozed spinach pasta in love with a beautiful Dalmatian white wine

by Gogo on March 1, 2012

in All wines,Carbs,EatIstria Recipes

One of those moments when you get so thrilled by a wine that soon you find yourself preparing a perfect dish to pair with. A rare white wine from Dalmatia having rustic authenticity and dusty atmosphere of an old wine cellar cried for some special homemade pasta…
Sladić maraština and green tagliatelle
Jedan od onih trenutaka kada vas neko vino tako oduševi da se uskoro nađete kako pripremate jelo koje bi savršeno pasalo uz njega. Jedno rijetko dalmatinsko bijelo vino sa seljačkom autentičnošću i prašnjavom atmosferom starog vinskog podruma zahtijevalo je specijalnu domaću paštu…

Hrvatska verzija

I love to pull out a dish from a dusty drawer of my memories, a dish Istrian grannies were preparing some twenty years ago whose aroma and flavor often wanders, sometimes even in dreams, through my neurons. An example of such dish is Milena’s green posutice (tagliatelle). In the 80ties Yugoslav economy was in deep crisis (here in Croatia we are always in some crisis) but nevertheless my aunt Milena served this pasta with plenty of expensive butter and Ribanac cheese, faux Parmiggiano that is still made by Sirela, dairy company from continental Croatia.

Only few essential flavors make this pretty simple dish so irresistible you can’t stop eating it.

Sladić with his Maraština at Dalmatia Wine Expo 2011 in MakarskaThe thing that put me into homemade pasta making mode was 2010 Sladić Maraština, a white wine coming from Skradin (Dalmatia). It seduced me with its rustic authenticity and dusty atmosphere of an old Dalmatian wine cellar, a wine I stumbled upon thanks to Vinopija, another Croatian wine blogger. Thanks Vinopija! I immediately knew that pairing of this low-key wine and simple pasta will be a spectacular gourmet experience.
 

Green tagliatelle with semolina flour

Usually you’ll find green pasta recipes with much less spinach because it is used just to color the pasta. Milena’s green tagliatelle are something completely different because the spinach flavor has to be dominant.

Green tagliatelle with butter and Parmiggiano

Ingredients (for 6 persons):

600 g spinach
500 g semolina flour
extra virgin olive oil
1 egg
butter
Parmiggiano Reggiano (or Grana Padano)
salt

Blanch the spinach for 5′ in a lot (5 L) of salty water (two tablespoons) and then shock in icy water to preserve nice green color. Drain it thoroughly a then pass it through the food mill. Drain the mashed spinach in chinoise. If we skip the last step we will be forced to add more flour that will ultimately reduce amount of spinach in the pasta. Remember, we want pasta over-dozed with spinach!

Over-dozed spinach posuticeIf you can’t find semolina flour (semola di grano duro) use the normal one but instead of only one use three eggs. Normal flour contains less proteins (gluten) so we need to add more eggs to achieve good dough elasticity.

Mix 2/3 of flour and salt, add spinach and stir. The drier your spinach is, less flour you’ll need to add in order to get a stiff, non sticky dough. Knead for 10-15 min. Cover. Let the dough rests for 20 minutes.

Use pasta machine to make 1.5 mm thick dough sheets then cut out the tagliatelle. You can also make green posutice (rhomboid shaped pasta) or green lasagna sheets. Flour the pasta, put it on a floured surface and dry it for several hours. If you decide to make eggless pasta and dry it thoroughly it is safe to store it on room temperature. Alternatively, good option is to freeze it.

Green lasagne with radicchio trevigiano and creamcheeseCook tagliatelle in plenty of salty water until they are al dente. Taste them several times because if you didn’t dry the pasta it will overcook very quickly. Serve posutice with some butter and freshly grated Parmiggiano or Grana Padano.

Replacing the cheese with freshly grated Istrian white truffle will transform this simple dish into a gourmet treat.

2010 Sladić Maraština and green pastaNow few words about Marko Sladić’s Maraština.The Wine Gang, a group of English wine journalist, gave 90 points to this beautiful white Dalmatian wine made from indigenous grape variety carrying the same name.

In the nose you’ll find yellow flowers, dry hay, Mediterranean aromatic herbs that recall images of Dalmatian countryside in the spring. At the end appear aromas of ripe pear and quince. In the mouth is dry and warm, vivacious acidity support with ease juicy extract. Noble bitterness survives all through the finish and lasts for a minute and reminds of salty licorice candies.

I don’t remember the last time I encountered such harmony between the nose and the mouth in a Croatian white wine. This wine is not one-dimensional, in every sip you discover something new. The finish is not only bitterish, there’s also some creaminess, it reminds of a good Sherry although the oxidative notes are minimal. Nice minerality literally vibrates between tongue and palate.

I hope you will be able to find this rare white wine and try it with the green pasta. I assure you, feels like heaven! ☺ Let me know if you have found some dreamlike food and wine pairing. After all, this doesn’t happen very often.

Zelena pašta overdozirana špinatom ljubuje sa prekrasnim dalmatinskim bijelim vinom

Volim iz prašnjave ladice mojih sjećanja izvući jelo kojeg su prije dvadesetak godina radile istarske none i čiji miris i okus zna, nekad i usred sna, lutati mojim neuronima. Jedno takvo jelo su zelene lazanje tete Milene koje je ona, iako su to bile stabilizacijske osamdesete (ljudi, nismo li mi konstantno u nekoj krizi?!), velikodušno začinjavala maslacom i ribancom od Sirele. Bio je to praznik za nepce.

Tek nekoliko esencijalnih okusa čine ovo maksimalno jednostavno jelo toliko neodoljivim da ga se ne može stati jesti.

Sladić with his Maraština at Dalmatia Wine Expo 2011 in MakarskaDa krenem u izradu te tamno zelene pašte krivo je jednako tako neodoljivo bijelo vino iz Skradina koje me osvojilo svojom seljačkom iskrenošću i prašnjavom atmosferom starog dalmatinskog podruma. To je 2010 Sladić Maraština, vino kojeg sam upoznao preko blogerskog kolege Vinopije kojem se ovom prilikom zahvaljujem. Znao sam odmah da će spoj tog samozatajnog vina i jednostavne pašte biti bombastični gurmanski užitak.
 

Zelene lazanje (tagliatelle) sa brašnom od durum pšenice

Obično ćete naći recepte za zelenu paštu gdje ide puno manje špinata jer služi samo da oboji paštu. Milenine zelene lazanje su bile nešto posve drugačije jer u njima okus špinata mora biti dominantan.

Green tagliatelle with butter and Parmiggiano

Sastojci (za 6 osoba):

600 g špinata
500 g brašna od durum pšenice (semola di grano duro)
ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje
1 jaje
maslac
Parmiggiano Reggiano ili Grana Padano
sol

Prokuhati 5 min špinat u puno slane vode. Ohladiti ga u ledeno hladnoj vodi da ne izgubi lijepu zelenu boju. Dobro ga ocijediti i potom propasirati. Dobivenu smjesu ostaviti da se ocijedi na cjedilu jer ako to ne učinimo bit ćemo prisiljeni dodati još brašna što će onda smanjiti udio špinata u pašti.

Over-dozed spinach posuticeAko ne možete naći brašno od durum pšenice (semola di grano duro) koristite obično glatko ali tada umiješajte 3 jaja. Obično brašno ima manje proteina (glutena) pa je potrebno dodati jaja da se postigne dobra elastičnost tijesta.

Pomiješajte dvije trećine brašna i sol, dodajte smjesu od špinata i umijesite tvrdo tijesto. Što bolje ocijedite špinat to će manje brašna biti potrebno dodavati da dobijete čvrsto tijesto koje se ne lijepi. Mijesite 10-15 minuta. Ostavite da pokriveno odstoji 20 minuta.

Uz pomoć mašine za paštu prvo razvaljajte tijesto na nešto deblje trake, recimo 1.5 mm, a potom izrežite lazanje. Možete napraviti i posutice (u obliku romba) ili listove za paštu in forno. Pobrašnite ih, posložite na pobrašnjeni pleh i sušite par sati. Ako potpuno izbacite jaja i dobro osušite paštu možete je skladištiti na sobnoj temperaturi. U suprotnom, možete je zamrznuti.

Green lasagne with radicchio trevigiano and creamcheeseSkuhajte posutice u puno slane vode dok ne budu al dente. Kušajte ih često jer ako ih niste sušili prekuhat će se u vrlo kratkom vremenu. Umiješajte maslac i poslužite s grubo naribanim Parimiggianom ili Grana Padanom.

Ako izbacite sir i naribate istarski bijeli tartuf transformirat ćete ovo jednostavno jelu u pravu gurmansku deliciju.

2010 Sladić Maraština and green pastaSada nešto o Sladićevoj Maraštini koju je i skupina engleskih vinskih stručnjaka pod imenom The Wine Gang ocijenila sa zavidnih 90 bodova.

U nosu naći ćete žuto cvijeće, narcise, suho sijeno, a mediteranske aromatične trave prizivaju slike dalmatinskog sela u proljeće. Pri kraju izbija zrela kruška i dunja. U ustima je suho i toplo, živahne svježine drže na okupu sočan ekstrakt. Plemenita gorčina probija se do finiša i traje minutu što podsjeća na fine bombone od likviricije.

Ne sjećam se kad sam zadnji put u nekom hrvatskom bijelom vinu susreo takvu harmoniju između mirisa i okusa. Nema jednodimenzionalnosti već se u svakom gutljaju nešto novo otkriva. Završetak nije samo gorkast, već i kremast, podsjeća i na dobar Sherry iako su oksidativni elementi minimalni. Slasna mineralnost doslovno vibrira između jezika i nepca.

Nadam se da ćete uspjeti naći ovo rijetko bijelo vino i probati ga uz zelenu paštu. Uvjeravam vas, osjećat ćete se na sedmom nebu gdje vam anđeli nježno pjevaju u uho. ☺ Javite ako i vi pronađete neku kombinaciju iz snova za jelo i vino. Iz mojeg iskustva ne dešava se to baš tako često.

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{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }

Clem March 2, 2012 at 09:17

Green pasta that *actually* tastes of spinach?!? I have to try this absolutely! You really can’t overdose on spinach, can you?

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Gogo March 6, 2012 at 16:36

Beware, you can become strong as Popeye or Olive!

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